This $15 Spanish white wine is a great introduction to grenache blanc
By Dave McIntyre,
Scott Suchman for The Washington Post
Grenache blanc is enjoying a mini-boom in Southern France and Central California, producing white wines of grip, mineral intensity and impressive subtlety. This week’s greatest value hails from Spain and shows what this varietal can do at a very affordable price. We also have a Spanish bubbly to toast cool autumn evenings, an Italian white for aperitifs or with seafood, and two outstanding reds worth a splurge.
GREAT VALUE
Celler Piñol Raig de Raïm Garnatxa Blanca 2020
(Excellent/Extraordinary)
Terra Alta, Spain, $15
The name is Catalan for “gleam of the grape.” Aromas of white flowers and sea air yield to flavors of white peach and lemongrass. Fine print on the label says “Cos i Anima, Cuerpo y Alma, Body and Soul.” Coleman Hawkins would probably approve. Alcohol by volume: 14.5 percent.
Imported by Ole & Obrigado, distributed in the District and Maryland by Bacchus, in Virginia by Salveto: Available in the District at Barcelona (14th Street, Cathedral Heights), Calvert Woodley, Grand Cata (Shaw), Pearson’s, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill. Available in Maryland at Alma Cocina Latina, Wine Source in Baltimore; Grapes & Grains in Timonium; Highland Wine & Spirits in Highland, Oakdale Fine Wine & Spirits in Catonsville; UnCorked in Towson; Vintage 414 in Cambridge. Available in Virginia at Barcelona in Reston; Crudo Nudo in Norfolk; Dominion Wine and Beer in Falls Church; Puck’s Market in Henrico; the Wine Outlet (Great Falls, McLean).
GREAT VALUE
Conde de Subirats Cava Brut
(Excellent)
Penedes, Spain, $14
Spanish cava is a great way to celebrate daily life — a minor victory at the office, a good (or even not-so-good) performance assessment, or any reason you choose to cheer. This sparkler has flavors of green apples and Bosc pears and bubbles to clean your palate for the next bite of food. ABV: 11.5 percent.
Imported by Grapes of Spain, distributed by Elite Wines: Available in the District at Little Italy Corner Store, Mom’s Organic Market, Rodman’s. Available in Maryland at Downtown Crown Wine and Beer, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda; LAX Wine & Spirits in Beltsville; Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in Annapolis; Mom’s Organic Market in Rockville; Old Farm Liquors in Frederick; Snider’s Super Foods, Woodmoor Supermarket in Silver Spring. Available in Virginia at Mom’s Organic Market (Alexandria, Arlington); Oxford Cellars in Richmond; Streets Market in Arlington; Yiannis Wine & Food in Virginia Beach.
GREAT VALUE
Stefano Accordini Pastel Bianco Veronese 2020
(Excellent)
Italy, $15
From mountain vineyards near Verona, in northern Italy, this wine from the garganega grape almost tastes like glacial runoff. Because most of us don’t go around licking glaciers, let’s stick with cold, focused flavors of orchard fruit and wild herbs. Try this on its own or with grilled fish. ABV: 12.5 percent.
Imported and distributed by Simon N Cellars: Available in the District at A. Litteri. Available in Virginia at Basic Necessities in Nellysford; Bottle House, Rio Hill Wine & Beer, Tastings of Charlottesville in Charlottesville; the Italian Store (Lyon Village) in Arlington.
Ponzi Vineyards Tavola Pinot Noir 2018
(Excellent/Extraordinary)
Willamette Valley, Ore., $26
Ponzi Vineyards, an Oregon pioneer winery, was purchased this year by French champagne house Bollinger, which also owns Domaine Chanson in Burgundy, so there is a three-way pinot noir connection to watch as the winery evolves under new ownership. The Ponzi family did just fine, of course, including making this delicious pinot from the 2018 vintage. Tavola is the “introductory” wine, sourced from vineyards around the Willamette Valley and priced relatively affordably. It’s savory, with smoky dark cherry and plum flavors and a hint of wood spice. Swirl, sniff, sip. Sit back. Smile. ABV: 13.8 percent.
Distributed in the District and Maryland by RNDC, in Virginia by M. Touton Selection: Available in the District at Barmy Wines & Liquors, Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Del Frisco’s Double Eagle, Eye Street Cellars, Hop Cask & Barrel, Rodman’s, Yard House. Available in Maryland at Market Tavern in Sykesville; Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in Annapolis; Pine Orchard Liquors in Ellicott City; Seasons 52 in Columbia; Yard House in Hanover. Available in Virginia at Bistro L’Hermitage in Woodbridge, Capital Grille in Tysons; the Cheese Shop and Fat Canary in Williamsburg; Indian Fields Tavern in Charles City; Rio Hill Wine & Beer in Charlottesville; Total Wine (various locations); Wegmans in Fairfax.
GREAT VALUE
Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2018
(Extraordinary)
Sicily, Italy, $24
This gorgeous wine blends nero d’avola and frappato, two red grapes common in Sicily. The nero provides dark red fruit and earthy spice, while the frappato adds soaring flavors of roses and bright berries. It’s like one of those contortionist yoga poses that somehow simultaneously touches the earth while reaching for the sky. I wish I could do it, but at least I can drink it. ABV: 13 percent.
Imported by Taub Family Selections, distributed by RNDC: Available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Cork & Fork, the Eastern, Gravitas, Rodman’s, Yes! Organic Market (Petworth).
Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be sold at additional stores. Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.
More from Food: Wine
