This savory, silky $14 pinot noir is worth stocking up on
By Dave McIntyre,
The Washington Post
The holidays are a good reason to drink bubbly — here are two, a champagne and a franciacorta from Italy, to put on your celebratory menu. We also have an outstanding, inexpensive pinot noir from France, an intriguingly delicious garnacha from Spain, and a rosso from Abruzzo in Italy made from organic grapes without added sulfites.
Champagne Gimonnet Gonet L’Accord Pinot Noir Chardonnay
(Extraordinary)
Les Mesnil sur Oger, Champagne, France. $47
This agreeable champers is on the delicate side, with peach, apple and apricot flavors and a soft bubbly texture. Don’t look for toasty, brioche notes; this is a wine of filigree and finesse. Slot this beauty in for mood-setting introductory toasts, aperitifs or a lighter first course. Alcohol by volume: 12 percent.
Imported by Roche-Mere Wine Selections, distributed by Salveto: Available in the District at Cordial Craft Wine, Beer & Spirits at the Wharf, Ghostline, Maxwell Park (Navy Yard), Modern Liquors, Paul’s of Chevy Chase, Punjab Grill. Available in Virginia at Bottleworks and Once Upon a Vine in Richmond; Planet Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria; Puck’s Market in Henrico; Whole Foods Market (Springfield); Wine Cabinet in Reston; the Wine Outlet (Great Falls, Vienna, McLean).
La Montina Extra Brut
(Extraordinary)
Franciacorta, Italy, $30
Franciacorta DOC is Italy’s most famous region for sparkling wine made in what is usually called the champagne method, with the bubbles coming from a second fermentation after the wine is bottled. (The Trento DOC is making a bid for recognition with its excellent bubblies.) This lovely extra brut from La Montina is a blend of chardonnay with a small percentage of pinot nero. The color is light straw, the bead of bubbles, or “perlage,” is steady and delicate. The wine smells of citrus blossoms and summer orchard fruit. It is ideal before dinner as an ice breaker, or with raw oysters or fritto misto. New to the market, it should enjoy better availability in the weeks and months to come. ABV: 12 percent.
Imported and distributed by Simon N Cellars: Available in the District at A. Litteri, Cork & Fork. Available in Virginia at Basic Necessities in Nellysford; Tastings of Charlottesville in Charlottesville.
GREAT VALUE
Dom. Brunet Pinot Noir 2019
(Extraordinary)
Pays d’Oc, France, $14
Wow — this delicious pinot noir from Languedoc, in southern France, resembles a good-quality Bourgogne rouge, or “basic burgundy,” which would typically cost twice the price. Savory dark cherry, with some forest floor character of dried leaves, and a silky texture make this a wine to stock up on. ABV: 13 percent.
Imported and distributed by Winebow: Available in the District at Cairo Wine & Liquor, Calvert Woodley, Rodman’s, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food & Beverage and Shuvam Beer and Wine in Bethesda; Chesapeake Wine Co. in Baltimore; Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; Franklins Restaurant, Brewery and General Store in Hyattsville; King’s Craft Beer, Wine & Deli in Rockville; Main & Market in Annapolis, Rip’s Country Inn in Mitchellville. Available in Virginia at Balducci’s (Alexandria, McLean), Norm’s Beer & Wine in Vienna.
GREAT VALUE
La Botera Vila-Closa Garnatxa Negra 2018
(Excellent/Extraordinary)
Terra Alta, Spain, $15
This is not your typical Spanish garnacha. Rather than inky and fruit-forward, this delightful wine has dreams of being a pinot noir when it grows up. The color is translucent ruby, the aromas lifted with violets and roses, the flavors light and herbal. Save some for an after-dinner conversation, or maybe just some alone time. ABV: 14.2 percent.
Imported and distributed by Bravo Wine Imports: Available in the District at A. Litteri, Batch 13, MacArthur Beverages, Radici Market. Available in Virginia at Caffespresso, Once Upon a Vine and Oxford Cellars in Richmond; Classic Wines in Great Falls; Crystal City Wine Shop in Arlington; Foods of All Nations, Mona Lisa Pasta and Rio Hill Wine & Beer in Charlottesville; Pickford’s Fresh Seafood in Harrisonburg; Planet Wine & Gourmet and Wine Gallery 108 in Alexandria; Sfizi Cafe in Falls Church; the Town Duck in Warrenton; Vienna Vintner in Vienna; Vino Bistro in Leesburg; Wine Cabinet in Reston; Wine House in Fairfax; Wine Mill in Winchester; WineStyles (Chantilly, Montclair).
GREAT VALUE
Cascina del Colle Bio Zero Rosso 2019
(Excellent/Extraordinary)
Abruzzo, Italy, $14
The label is simple, but it gets the marketing across, in all-caps like a presidential tweet: “WITHOUT ADDED SULFITES” and “ORGANIC WINE.” This is the kind of fresh glou glou natural wine fans pine for — grapey and with an energy that tickles the palate. Chill slightly, and toss it back with a spicy pizza. ABV: 13.5 percent.
Imported by Wine4All, distributed by Global Wines Maryland: Available in the District at Old City Market and Oven, Rodman’s, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, Sheffield Wine & Liquor Shoppe, Watergate Vintners & Spirits, Wine & Butter. Available in Maryland at Bethesda Market and Cork 57 Beer and Wine in Bethesda; Dawson’s Market, King’s Craft Beer, Wine & Deli, Potomac Beer & Wine and Village Beer & Fine Wine in Rockville; Fenwick Beer & Wine in Silver Spring; Red: Wine, Beer & Spirits in Clarksville; Roots Market in Olney; Simpatico in St. Michaels; Takoma Park-Silver Spring Co-Op in Takoma Park.
Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be sold at additional stores. Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.
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