Tangy Russian syrniki, or farmer cheese pancakes, can be enjoyed sweet or savory

Syrniki and pupusas aren’t exact matches, but they share enough DNA to suggest that people across the globe have frequently turned to basic, handmade cakes for sustenance and energy, whether out of survival or for the sheer pleasure of the snack (or both). Unlike the masa-based pupusas, syrniki are sweetened with granulated sugar, which is why you find these Russian pancakes served as dessert, too.

Salvadorans tend to incorporate more savory ingredients into their pupusas, but both cakes rely on cheese. Syrniki are traditionally made with tvorog, a fresh cheese formed from soured milk, but you can substitute farmer cheese if you don’t have access to a Russian/Eastern European grocery store, or don’t want to buy tvorog online. The sour cream topping will provide the tang usually supplied by tvorog.

Syrniki can easily be transformed into a dessert, with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar and/or the addition of fresh berries (or jam). Traditional syrniki don’t include any leaveners, but author Darra Goldstein adds a little baking powder to hers because she “ate too many hockey pucks during the Soviet years!”

Goldstein’s syrniki are golden, sweet-tart and — dare I say it? — almost luxurious in the way they provide so little resistance. They are the anti-hockey pucks. They also share something with their Latin American cousins: They are utterly habit-forming. You’ll find yourself eating one after another, almost unconsciously, until they’re gone.

Note: Tvorog can be found at Russian and/or Eastern European grocery stores or online.

Make ahead: The patties can be shaped and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 hours.

Storage: Syrniki are best the day they are made, but can be refrigerated, tightly wrapped, for up to 1 day.

Scale and get a printer-friendly version of the recipe here.

• 2 large egg yolks
• 1 pound (450 grams) tvorog or fresh farmer cheese
• 1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
• 3/4 cup (95 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 to 2 tablespoons heavy cream (optional)
• 2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter, plus more as needed
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more as needed
• Sour cream, for serving

In a medium bowl, using a hand mixer on low speed, briefly beat the yolks and the cheese until combined. Fold in the sugar until fully incorporated.

In a separate bowl, mix together 1/2 cup (63 grams) of the flour, the baking powder and the salt, then add it to the cheese mixture until fully incorporated. The batter should be loose and a little sticky. If it’s too dry, incorporate 1 to 2 tablespoons of heavy cream to loosen it.

Sprinkle 1/4 cup (31 grams) of flour onto a plate and dust your hands with a little of the flour, too. Scoop out about 2 tablespoons of batter and place it on the floured plate. Using your hands, coat the batter in flour and shape it into a round 2- to 3-inch patty; it will be loose and slightly sticky. Repeat with the remaining batter, working as quickly as you can; you want the batter to remain cold. (Add more flour to the plate, as necessary, to form the patties.)

In a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat, melt the butter and heat the oil. Using a spatula or your hands, transfer the patties to the skillet and cook them slowly, in batches, until the undersides are browned, 2 to 3 minutes. (If the patties start to brown too quickly or burn, decrease the heat; if the pan starts to dry out, add more oil and/or butter as needed.) Using a thin spatula, gently flip the patties and cook on the other side until browned, another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve hot, with a dollop of sour cream.

(Based on 4 servings)

Calories: 435; Total Fat: 21 g; Saturated Fat: 9 g; Cholesterol: 107 mg; Sodium: 715 mg; Carbohydrates: 48 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugar: 27 g; Protein: 16 g.

Scale and get a printer-friendly version of the recipe here.

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