This sauvignon blanc tastes like a splurge, but doesn’t cost like one
By Dave McIntyre,
The Washington Post
To start the new year off right, here’s a sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley that sports a modest Touraine designation but tastes more like a pricier Sancerre. We also have a perennial favorite white wine from the Rhone Valley and an intriguing chardonnay from an Italian bubbly specialist. And if you are a fan of the sweeter red blends that have emerged from California in the past few years, here are two off-dry reds from southern Italy that kick the quality up a notch.
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And a bonus wine, for those who will be celebrating the inauguration of Kamala D. Harris as vice president on Jan. 20: The McBride Sisters Collection, which Wine Spectator calls the largest black-owned wine company in the United States, offers Black Girl Magic Sparkling Brut ($25), and it is delicious. I have not been able to determine if it is available at retail in the D.C. area, though it is marketed nationally at Kroger, Target and Walmart stores and through the winery website at mcbridesisters.com. The nearest store listed on the website as carrying this wine is — appropriately enough — in Wilmington, Del.
GREAT VALUE
Comte Henry Sauvignon 2019
(Extraordinary)
Touraine, Loire Valley, France, $22
The simple white label suggests an unassuming wine, and you might be put off at the price, as Touraine sauvignon blancs typically clock in under $20. But the modesty in marketing signals confidence in quality. This wine approaches the more pricey appellation of Sancerre in its depth and minerality. Quince, apple and pear flavors envelop the palate, followed by a stony acidity that keeps the wine focused through a long finish. Serve this with rich poultry or seafood dishes; don’t serve it too cold. Alcohol by volume: 12.5 percent.
Imported by Artisans & Vines, distributed in the District and Maryland by Artisans & Vines, in Virginia by LK Wine Tour and Sales: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Old City Market and Oven, Rodman’s, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, Sheffield Wine & Liquor Shoppe. Available in Maryland at Absolutely Wine or Spirits in Columbia, Downtown Crown Wine and Beer and Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda, Gilly’s Craft Beer & Fine Wine and Rollins Beer-Wine-Deli in Rockville, Potomac Grocer in Potomac, Rip’s Country Inn in Bowie, Rodman’s in White Flint, Snider’s Super Foods in Silver Spring, Sugarloaf Wine Cellar in Germantown, Takoma Beverage Co. in Takoma Park, Village Green Spirit Shop in Ellicott City.
M La Montina Palanca Bianco
(Excellent/Extraordinary)
Lombardy, Italy, $18
Montina produces franciacorta sparkling wine, including the delicious three-star extra brut I recommended last month. This still white wine is beguiling; I was surprised to learn it was mostly chardonnay, because it is so light on the palate. (Since Montina is a sparkling program, the grapes are picked before they are fully ripe.) It was simple at first but kept attracting my attention with notes of talc and white flowers. Every sip was different. The blend is filled out with 10 percent pinot blanc, and since it doesn’t fall within the Italian appellation regulations, the label carries no vintage date. ABV: 12 percent.
Imported and distributed by Simon N Cellars: Available in the District at A. Litteri, Cork & Fork. Available in Virginia at Basic Necessities in Nellysford, Bottle House and Tastings of Charlottesville in Charlottesville, the Wine Outlet (McLean, Vienna).
GREAT VALUE
E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2018
(Excellent/Extraordinary)
Rhone Valley, France, $16
An old standby: Guigal is a celebrated producer in the Rhone Valley, and its white cotes du rhone is reliably seductive, flowery and rich. The blend is a mouthful of grapes: viognier, roussanne, marsanne, clairette, bourboulenc and grenache blanc. It woos you with aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle, then hugs your palate with velvet. Try this with rich seafood or poultry. ABV: 14.5 percent.
Imported by Vintus, distributed in the District and Maryland by RNDC, in Virginia by M. Touton: Available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Metro Wine & Spirits, Morris Miller Wine & Liquor. Available in Maryland at Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits and Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in Annapolis; Graul’s Market (Lutherville, Towson) and Dawson’s Liquors in Severna Park; Hunt Valley Wine, Liquor & Beer in Cockeysville; Lax Wine and Spirits in Beltsville; Pine Orchard Liquors in Ellicott City; Town Center Market in Riverdale Park; Wine Source in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Balducci’s in McLean, Crozet Great Valu in Crozet, Idylwood Grill in Falls Church, Total Wine & More (Ballston, Fairfax, Fredericksburg, McLean), Wegmans (Dulles, Fairfax, Fredericksburg, Gainesville, Leesburg).
Casa Marrone Appassimento Rosso 2019
(Excellent)
Puglia, Italy, $17
Sweet red blends from California have been popular the past few years, but they tend to be treacly, syrupy and unbalanced. Why not pay just a little bit more for their inspiration — the sweet red wines of Italy? Casa Marrone Appassimento is made with organic grapes, dried in the sun to concentrate the flavors and the sugars before pressing. The wine is off-dry, but balanced, with flavors of cherry cordial, marzipan and raspberries, dusted with baking spice. Try this with smoked meats or spicy pizza. ABV: 14.5 percent.
Imported by Vinimundi, distributed by Craft Wine & Spirits: Available in the District at 1 West Dupont Circle Wines & Liquors, Yes! Organic Market (various locations). Available in Maryland at Canton Crossing Wine + Spirits in Baltimore, Hops & Vines in Odenton, Riverside Liquors in Frederick, Yes! Organic Market in Hyattsville.
Cantine Pellegrino Finimondo! 2018
(Excellent)
Sicily, Italy, $15
This wine is also made in the appassimento fashion, with the grapes being dried somewhat before pressing. This wine is more modern in style, with jammy blackberry fruit flavors. And, hey, the name Finimondo — “the end of the world” — seems appropriate for these times, though the importer explains that the name is a colloquial expression meaning the wine is terrific. ABV: 14 percent.
Imported by Caput Mundi, distributed by Impero: Available in the District at A. Litteri, Batch 13, Imperial Wine & Spirits, Rodman’s, Salumeria 2703. Available in Maryland at Crescent Wine & Spirits in Bowie; Dawson’s Market in Rockville; Di Pasquale’s Marketplace and Wine Source in Baltimore; Downtown Crown Wine and Beer, Finewine.com and Gemelli’s Italian Market in Gaithersburg; Edgewater Liquors in Edgewater; Fishpaws Marketplace in Arnold; Frederick Wine House, Old Farm Liquors and Orion Wine & Spirits in Frederick; Giolitti’s Delicatessen and the Italian Market in Annapolis; Old Town Market in Kensington; Rodman’s in White Flint; Snider’s Super Foods in Silver Spring. Available in Virginia at Bombolini Pasta and Branch & Vine in Richmond; City Vino in Fredericksburg; Crystal Palate in Norfolk; Dolce Vita Italian Restaurant & Wine Bar in Fairfax; the Italian Store (Lyon Village, Westover) and Sense of Place Cafe in Arlington; Marchese Italian Market, Rigoletto Italian Bakery and Yiannis Wine Shop in Virginia Beach; Market 2 Market in Alexandria; Puck’s Market in Henrico; Vienna Vintner in Vienna; the Wine Attic in Clifton; WineStyles in Montclair.
Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be sold at additional stores. Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.
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