Cicada season closes one restaurant patio, but others are ready for the buzz

Wilkins was disappointed, he says, but sympathetic to Little Pearl. He’s fascinated by the much-discussed arrival of Brood X, and says he wouldn’t have minded dining in their company. “I think it’s cool,” he says. “But I can understand that if a restaurant wants to offer a particular experience, then having trillions of insects screaming at you probably disrupts that.”