These Portuguese white wines are crisp, cooling and cost just $11 a bottle
By Dave McIntyre,
Mark Gail for The Washington Post
Two vinho verdes from the same producer, made with the same grape variety and in the same manner, offer different expressions, demonstrating the influence of vineyard soil type on the flavor of the wine. The wines are delicious, so it’s not just an academic exercise. To round out this week’s recommendations, we have an outstanding red Rhône blend, a rustic French country wine for everyday drinking, and a refreshing sauvignon blanc blend from South Africa.
La Font du Loup Côtes du Rhône 2019
(Extraordinary)
Rhône Valley, France, $25
From a producer best known for its Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this grenache-syrah blend is rich and savory with flavors of blackberry, lavender and sage. It reminds me more of a cru from Vacqueyras or Gigondas than a regular Côtes du Rhône. Alcohol by volume: 14.5 percent.
Imported and distributed in the District and Maryland by Artisans & Vines, distributed in Virginia by LK Wine Tours & Sales: Available in the District at A. Litteri, La Famosa, Rodman’s. Available in Maryland at Beer Wine & Co., Bradley Food & Beverage in Bethesda; Downtown Crown Wine and Beer in Gaithersburg; the Wardroom in Easton; the Elkridge Furnace Inn in Elkridge; Girl & the Vine in Takoma Park; Red: Wine Beer & Spirits in Clarksville; Roots Market in Olney; Village Green Spirit Shop, the Wine Bin in Ellicott City. Available in Virginia at L’Auberge Provencale in Boyce.
Villiera Down to Earth Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2019
(Excellent)
South Africa, $15
Crisp and refreshing, with flavors of apricot and quince, this wine gains a bit of body from 18 percent semillon in the blend. I also recently tasted the 2018, which has softened and become more expressive, so I suggest stocking up on a few and holding some for six months or so. ABV: 13.5 percent.
Imported by Red Wolf Imports, distributed in the District and Maryland by Global Wines Maryland, in Virginia by LK Wine Tours & Sales: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Old City Market & Oven, Prego Again, Rodman’s, Sara’s Market, Streets Market (Connecticut Avenue), Watergate Vintners, Wine & Butter. Available in Maryland at Aria Beer Wine & Deli, Bethesda Market, Maple Beer and Wine in Bethesda; the Beer & Wine Cellar, Dawson’s Market, Gilly’s Craft Beer & Fine Wine, King’s Craft Beer Wine & Deli in Rockville; Colonial Liquors in La Plata; Decanter Fine Wines in Columbia; Downtown Crown Wine and Beer, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; Friendship Gourmet Market in Chevy Chase; Franklins Restaurant, Brewery & General Store in Hyattsville; Rodman’s in White Flint. Available in Virginia at Aldie Peddler in Aldie; Murphy Beverage in Winchester; Vinova Tapas & Wine Bar in Front Royal.
GREAT VALUE
Encostas do Lima Schist Vinho Verde 2020
(Excellent)
Portugal, $11
The Schist, like its sibling, Granite, is a light and refreshing white wine in the style of Portugal’s vinho verde, with a little extra intensity than the category is known for. The Schist is expansive on the nose and palate, with creamy texture and fragrant flavors of orange blossom and mango. ABV: 11.5 percent.
Imported and distributed by Kysela: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Rodman’s. Available in Maryland at Bethesda Co-Op in Cabin John; Columbia Fine Wine & Spirits in Columbia; Country Boy Market in Wheaton; District East in Frederick; Downtown Crown Wine and Beer, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; Grosvenor Market, Village Beer & Fine Wine in Rockville; Maple Lawn Wine & Spirits in Fulton; the Old Vine, Wine Source in Baltimore; Petite Cellars, the Wine Bin in Ellicott City; the Perfect Pour in Elkridge; River Hill Wine & Spirits in Clarksville; Wooden Keg Liquors in Hagerstown. Available in Virginia at Baked Bistro in Hampton; Bon Vivant Wine & Brew, Pagan River Wine Merchants in Smithfield; the Brickhouse Run in Petersburg; the Casual Pint, Dominion Wine and Beer in Falls Church; the Cheese Shop, Williamsburg Factory, Wine Seller in Williamsburg; De Fles Winkel in Glen Allen; Heritage Mill Wines 1848 in Edinburg; Kroger in Suffolk; Indulge Bakery & Bistro in Newport News; Leek & Thistle, Manchester’s Table in Richmond; Locke Store in Millwood; Specials Wine Seller in Kilmarnock; Urbanna Trading Co. in Urbanna; Vino Market in Midlothian; the Wine Guild of Charlottesville, Wine Warehouse in Charlottesville; the Wine Outlet in McLean.
GREAT VALUE
Encostas do Lima Granite Vinho Verde 2020
(Excellent)
Portugal, $11
Lean and focused, the Granite version of this vinho verde seems focused on the earth — or the rock — while the Schist tastes more of flowers and fruit reaching for the sun. Aside from showing how geology influences a wine’s flavor, it’s a delightful patio sipper and a good choice for those relaxing days when lunch isn’t just a sandwich hastily scarfed at our desks. ABV: 11.5 percent.
Imported and Distributed by Kysela: Available in the District at Rodman’s. Available in Maryland at Bethesda Co-Op in Cabin John; Country Boy Market in Wheaton; Downtown Crown Wine and Beer, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda; Grosvenor Market in Rockville; Longmeadow Wine & Liquors in Hagerstown; the Old Vine, Wine Source in Baltimore; Petite Cellars, Wine Bin in Ellicott City; the Perfect Pour in Elkridge; River Hill Wine & Spirits in Clarksville. Available in Virginia at Baked Bistro in Hampton; Balducci’s in Alexandria; Bon Vivant Wine & Brew, Pagan River Wine Merchants in Smithfield; the Brickhouse Run in Petersburg; the Casual Pint, Dominion Wine and Beer in Falls Church; the Cheese Shop, Williamsburg Pottery in Williamsburg; De Fles Winkel in Glen Allen; Heritage Mill Wines 1848 in Edinburg; Indulge Bakery & Bistro in Newport News; Kroger in Suffolk; Leek & Thistle, Manchester’s Table in Richmond; Locke Store in Millwood; Specials Wine Seller in Kilmarnock; Urbanna Trading Co. in Urbanna; Verre Wine Bar in Arlington; Vino Market in Midlothian; the Wine Guild of Charlottesville, Wine Warehouse in Charlottesville; the Wine Outlet in McLean; Woodstock Cafe in Woodstock.
GREAT VALUE
Château Lastours Tradition 2018
(Excellent)
Gaillac, France, $14
I love this style of wine from the lesser-known regions of France: hearty, rustic and honest. It’s an everyday red, one you’ll want to share, not show. And if you’re keeping track of the grape varieties you’ve tasted, pull out your list: The blend includes braucol — a local name for the fer variety — and duras, along with the more familiar syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. ABV: 13.5 percent.
Imported and distributed by Baron François: Available in the District at Morris Miller Wine & Liquor, Rodman’s, U Street Wine & Beer. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food & Beverage in Bethesda; Dawson’s Market in Rockville. Available in Virginia at Norm’s Beer & Wine in Vienna.
Availability information is based on distributor records. Wines might not be in stock at every listed store and might be sold at additional stores. Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.
Correction: A previous version of this article had the wrong price for the Villiera Down to Earth Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2019. It had been corrected.
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