West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle rewards weekend visitors

We got on the road late morning on a Friday at the end of February and just over an hour later pulled into Charles Town, W.Va. Hungry, we made our way to Sumittra Thai Kitchen & Bar on West Washington Street, the main drag of town — the county seat of Jefferson County. We ordered bubble tea and the shrimp and avocado roll appetizer before devouring red chicken curry and stir-fry. As lovers of fresh Thai flavors, we found this little restaurant to be a real gem.

During the afternoon, we explored the town founded by Charles Washington, George Washington’s brother. Strolling through the historic district worked off our lunch, and we paused at the formidable Jefferson County Courthouse. Our on-the-spot research revealed that the fiery abolitionist John Brown stood trial here in 1859. Curious, we discovered Brown was executed in a field a few blocks away, a site now marked by a historical plaque. Using Google Maps, we followed walking directions to Zion Episcopal Church cemetery, where 70-plus members of the Washington family are buried — more than in any other place in the country.

We caught a much-needed caffeine boost at the popular Sibling Coffee Roasters, where locals were hanging out and the barista was greeting customers by name, then stopped at Abolitionist Ale Works to pick up a four-pack of brew — including the IPA Haze of the New— to take home.

The 15-minute drive to Hillbrook Inn is along curvy, picturesque country roads. A snaking driveway leads to the sprawling inn, the 1920s home of Brig. Gen. Frank E. Bamford. After checking in, we were led through a maze of rooms and up a couple of short flights of narrow stairs to our room, the grand Bamford Suite. To accommodate our preferred weekend dates, the inn had invited us to spend our second night in the Snuggery, because it would show us two different setups. For now, we found ourselves in an expansive suite — decked out with sofas, a full vanity set and regal four-poster bed — with a separate entrance where we could park. We caught up on reading and emails in the cozy sitting area facing a fireplace before changing for dinner.

Along with other guests, we enjoyed predinner drinks in the intimate, low-lit bar with a fireplace. In the dining room, sommelier Marine Conn recommended 2017 Clos des Porrets St-Georges, a storied Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru wine from Burgundy. We chatted about her French background, her training in Bordeaux and her family. (She comes from a line of chefs, sommeliers and butchers, a home where food and wine are sacred, she said.) After a starter of a half-dozen oysters, our entrees of monkfish and venison arrived, rounding out an altogether satisfying evening. Chef Jan Van Haute, who joined the inn six months ago, told me he aims to make the restaurant a major culinary destination and garner a Michelin star, a reasonable goal given his international experience working in two three-star Michelin restaurants.

In Harpers Ferry the following morning, we met park ranger Isaac Wickenheiser of the National Park Service for a private tour. He started us at the “beginning,” taking us to the Point — the area overlooking the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers. He explained that Harpers Ferry exists because President George Washington selected the strategic site for a federal armory, spurring the economy and birthing a bustling town. Wickenheiser talked and walked with us around Lower Town (the restored 19th-century historic district) and described highlights from the town’s history, which include the John Brown raid, a precursor to the Civil War, in which he seized the armory in a failed attempt to foment an uprising of enslaved people and like-minded abolitionists. The event emboldened Northern anti-slavery sentiment.

To get some exercise, we decided to hike to the Overlook Cliff above Harpers Ferry using the Maryland Heights Trail. We followed the pedestrian bridge over the Potomac River, a footbridge that is part of the Appalachian Trail. Fun fact: The faded sign on the mountain face seen from the bridge is from an early 1900s advertisement “Mennen’s Borated Talcum Toilet Powder.” At the bottom of the bridge, we walked north a short distance on the C&O Canal Towpath until signs to the trailhead appeared. The hike is marked well and leads to the scenic overlook, about a four-mile hike total. When we arrived at the overlook, it started snowing. We joined a hushed group of more than 20 hikers admiring the view amid swirling snowflakes.

Back in town on the highly trafficked High Street, I poked my head into a few shops. At True Treats Historic Candy, spokeswoman Maryann Fisher said the store is the only research-based historic candy shop in the country. Supplying museums around the country, it’s chock-full of treats from “the first candy ever” through the 1900s, and I watched parents anxiously monitoring children, who, with shining eyes, were grabbing handfuls of candy to plop into their wicker shopping baskets.

Back in our car after a quick walk to Jefferson Rock to see the view Thomas Jefferson praised extravagantly in 1785, we stopped for a quick bite at a place that bills itself as the state’s first vegan restaurant, Kelley Farm Kitchen — whose building resembles a dollhouse — only to learn that it suspended indoor seating during the pandemic. Given the cold weather, we took a rain check.

We rolled into Shepherdstown, the oldest town in West Virginia, dating to about the 1730s, and parked along German Street in the downtown historic district, a street that looks like a painting. Settled by German immigrants, the town is perched over the Potomac River about 12 miles past Harpers Ferry. It’s home to Shepherd University, which creates an authentic vibe blending old and new as students, shoppers and families fill the main town thoroughfare of German Street. The singular white public library building won my vote for most architecturally interesting, occupying the 1800 market house. We disappeared into Four Seasons Books and got lost for a while. Through German Street Marketplace Coffee & Candlery, I learned about ramps, wild onions native to West Virginia — the shop sells wild ramp jelly and aprons emblazoned with the message “Let’s go ramp hunting!” More items will roll in for spring, when ramps are in high season.

With growling stomachs, we ducked in for an early dinner at Bavarian Brothers Brewing, relishing the lively atmosphere and Erwin’s Angry Ale. I arrived hankering for a burger and didn’t bother looking over the menu’s details, so I was surprised to discover it was topped with a bratwurst slab — a nice German touch. Outdoors I spied an expansive terrace, sure to be full on a nice day.

After another night at Hillbrook, this time in the Snuggery — a cozy space, as the name implies — I bundled up after breakfast and walked to the spa for a facial with aesthetician Angie Atkins. The small spa team stays busy serving the area and overnight guests, Atkins said, with the couple’s massage being a favorite.

After checkout, we packed up for our quick drive back to D.C. Over my shoulder, the sun streamed through the trees of the woodsy property, illuminating the quaint bridge over the quiet stream.

Where to stay

Hillbrook Inn & Spa

4490 Summit Point Rd., Charles Town

304-725-4223

This 1920s-era inn is on a quiet, woodsy property with a winding stream. Filled with fireplaces, narrow stairways and a cozy library, the four-star bed-and-breakfast is rich in ambiance. Guests can choose from 19 suites spread across the main house and four other structures. Rooms from $149 per night.

What to eat

Hillbrook Inn restaurant

4490 Summit Point Rd., Charles Town

800-304-4223

The restaurant at Hillbrook Inn offers fine dining in memorable surroundings under the leadership of Chef Jan Van Haute. Dinner served Monday and Tuesday 6 to 8 p.m. and Wednesday through Sunday 5 to 8 p.m.; lunch Thursday to Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Four-course dinner tasting menu $95 per person; five courses $115 per person; and six courses $135 per person. A la carte entrees from $39.

Sumittra Thai Kitchen & Bar

213 W. Washington St., Charles Town

304-885-8747

For fresh and flavorful Thai food, visit this little restaurant in the heart of Charles Town. Open Tuesday through Friday 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4 to 8:30 p.m. and Saturday noon to 9 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday. Entrees from $14.

Kelley Farm Kitchen

1112 Washington St., Bolivar

304-535-9976

This vegan restaurant is said to be the first of its kind in West Virginia. It occupies a picturesque house with a welcoming front porch. Open Monday noon to 4 p.m. with a limited menu; Thursday, Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 5 to 8 p.m.; and Sunday noon to 5 p.m. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Entrees from $12.99.

Bavarian Brothers Brewing

164 Shepherd Grade Rd., Shepherdstown

304-876-2551

This German-style brewpub sits on the Potomac River and offers outdoor seating, ideal for great food and drink with a mesmerizing view. Reservations recommended. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Entrees from $16.

What to do

Zion Episcopal Church cemetery

301 E. Congress St., Charles Town

304-725-5312

Wander around this historic cemetery. Look for members of the Washington family who were laid to rest here. Open daily from dawn to dusk. Free.

True Treats Historic Candy

144 High St., Harpers Ferry

304-461-4714

Take a journey through time at this candy store, which offers historical treats. Open weekdays 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and weekends 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

German Street Marketplace Coffee & Candlery

103 W. German St., Shepherdstown

304-876-1106

Find something local — and maybe surprising — at this shop on the main drag. Recently, there were products celebrating ramps, the native wild onions harvested in spring. Open daily, except Tuesday, from 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Harpers Ferry National Historical Park

171 Shoreline Dr., Harpers Ferry

304-535-6029

The official entrance to Harpers Ferry, where you can park and take advantage of all the area has to offer. The park entrance fee covers parking, museums, exhibits, trails and programming, including tours. Drop in at the visitor center, where you can talk with park rangers or volunteers, learn about tours and exhibits, and pick up maps and informational brochures. Next, hop on the free shuttle that drops you in Lower Town, the restored historic district. Admission included with visitor center ticket. Park open daily, except major holidays, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Trails open daily sunrise to sunset. Visitor center open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Park admission $20 per vehicle, $15 per motorcycle, $10 per person or bicycle.

Harpers Ferry Park Association

723 Shenandoah St., Harpers Ferry

304-535-6881

Located in the Bookshop in Lower Town, the nonprofit partner of the National Park Service offers tours of Harpers Ferry National Historical Park. Call for tours or book online. Tours $80 for one to six people, $130 for seven to 20 people.

Information

PLEASE NOTE

Potential travelers should take local and national public health directives regarding the pandemic into consideration before planning any trips. Travel health notice information can be found on the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s interactive map showing travel recommendations by destination and the CDC’s travel health notice webpage.